Installing Accel Coils into your 3000gt/Stealth

Disclaimer: This is only meant to provide guidance/hints in installing these coils. I am not responsible for any damage done to property or person by providing this information.

Ok, here is how I installed the Accel GM coils into my stealth TT.

First off, Tools/Materials:

Socket set/wrenches, Drill, Hacksaw or jigsaw with metal cutting blade, wire crimpers, needle nose pliers, soldering gun or iron, electrical tape, tounge crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, zip ties, bolts/nuts

Note: Accel makes crimpers specifically for this purpose but I opted to do the crimping using the tools I had on hand. The accel crimpers are very good at what they do and is recommended if you arent very skilled at crimping terminals.. aka plier virtuoso.


GM AC/Delco style Super DIS coil 140017 (youll need 3)
90deg HEI - GM nipple top style degree boot/terminal kit OR you can reuse your boots and get GM style terminals from car quest or napa.. etc
Plug wires - either make your own from accel kit/wire OR you can use the Accel plug replacement wires. For more info on that you should go to, you can lookup info on pdf files regarding Accels product lineup
The Accel stuff is readily avail at Jegs or Summit racing.
Youll reuse the stock coil pack harness and the small capacitor used for ground.
Depending on your install you might need this or that.. but the above list covers most of the important stuff.

What I did

ok, this is what I did to install the coils

First step, build a bracket for your coils. I bought some aluminum from homedepot, drilled some holes in it to accomidate the bolts that will secure them to the bracket. You can use whatever bolt/fastener you want really, just make sure its not that long/obtrusive as there is limited space in the coil area of the engine bay.

I removed the stock coil pack from the engine bay. Doing so required me to remove one of the ic pipes and disconnect the plug wires. There are 3 bolts securing the coil to the head, two of them are obvious, the third smaller one is underneath the coil closest to the radiator, you should be able to feel it with your fingers. Unbolt the coils and disconnect the main harness and small ground harness to remove the coilpack completely.

Coils removed

The next step was to start testfitting/fabricating a bracket. I basically took the 3 coils, moved them around in the engine bay till I found a good spot that didnt interfere with moving parts/existing hoses. The position of the coils will/should be similar to that of the plug n play kit sold. In short, Make a bracket, secure it using the bolts that used to hold the stock coil pack. Its really up to you, just make sure all you wires will reach, its not hitting anything that moves and it doesnt interfere with anything.

New and old coils

Top of coils/bracket

After I was satisfied with the placement of the coils I went ahead and started making the connecting wires for it. Looking at the stock coil pack wire harness you can see 4 wires. Red for power, and 3 green wires which are triggers. You will basically mimick the stock wiring setup onto the accel coils. Looking at the bottom of the coils youll see two slots, you can pop the small cover off to reveal the two terminals.

Using some wire, soldering gun, heatshrink tubing and tounge connectors, I made my own wiring for the coils. use some decent gauge wire for this, at least what they use on the stock coils. I then soldered the suckers together and used heatshrink to insulate. This is where you wanna do a good job. Dont use crappy electrical tape as that will prob unravel itself. In hooking up the trigger wires, just mimic the stock coils, I believe the all green wire goes to the middle coil, the green/black and green/silver? (I will update with correct info later) wires go to the outer coils. Like I said before just follow the stock coil pattern. After fabricating my wires I went ahead and cut the stock harness of the coil pack and resoldered it to my new wires. The ground wire/capacitor was removed and reattached to a part of my bracket. In order to use those terminal covers that pop off the bottom of the accel coils you might have to widen the slot a bit, I went ahead and drilled holes so the wires/connecters would fit. Do as you like, just make sure the connectors/wires wont slip out of the coils during use. You can use glue/solder.. whatever. Wrap them up tight too zipties n such.

Wire setup
Underside of wires and coils

ok after thats all done and soldered together you should be able to install your coils.

Ok now the plug wires. You can make your own wires from scratch, using the terminal kit, spooled wire and plug boots or you can do what I did and that is reuse my accel wires by removing the terminal and replacing it with a gm style terminal.

I started out by removing the boot from the accel wire then using a small flat head screwdriver up rooted the existing terminal. I then used needle nose pliers to bend the terminal out and off the wire. Now, using the wire crimpers n pliers I recrimped the new terminal on the wires. Do a good job of this as you dont want the suckers slipping off or getting a bad connection. Try the mimic the way the stock terminals were done (if youre reusing the accel wires). Also, while not really needed, I used my coax hex crimper to help me crimp the terminals to the wire. Redo all 6 plug wires and install your old or new boots to the wires. Reattach the wires to the new coils in the proper order.

Removing the old terminal
New terminal crimped on

That should be it! Put your engine back together and doublecheck all your connections.



I redid my coil bracket and reused the stock bracket to support the coils
Now the coils sit sideways, no prob with fitment, stuff is tight in the enginebay as always.
Coils with stock bracket

Random Info
This upgrade cost me around 140 bux total, around 3-4 hours o labor, most of it spend screwing with that bracket and testfitting it in that cramped friggin engine bay. Prob 210 total if I include wires.

For someone looking to do this I would recommend buying the accel wire kit for our car and just using those instead because it comes with boots for the plugs and terminals, all you have to do is remove the stock coil connector and reattach the gm style one. You will prob save a good 20 bux or more as well as cutting down on labor time.

The terminal boot kit, while more expensive than just buying a couple gm terminal ends at carquest, is worth the money. It comes with boots that fit very snug on the coil terminals and insure a good seal as well as a tight connection. I got a good solid click when putting the ends on, because of the good fit no worries of the wire end slipping off the terminal.

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Last updated Dec 12th 2002